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| Nigiri at Sushi Azabu |
But this story of a man, possibly the most famous sushi chef
in Japan (and the only sushi chef
with three Michelin stars) is much more than sushi porn.
It is the human story of a man who humbly strives for
perfection in this one task. From Jiro to his sons to the man who sources tuna,
a few common themes emerged.
1.
Absolute
dedication to craft. There are several
beautiful shots of Jiro’s oldest son sitting outside the dining room in the
morning waving sheets of nori over smoking kindling. The work appears dull and monotonous but he
approaches it in the methodical, committed fashion that he will later use to mold
rice and slice fish. In Jiro’s world,
even the mundane task of toasting nori requires complete devotion.
2.
Filial
responsibility. Much is made in the
story of how the younger of the two sons left Jiro’s several years ago to start
his own restaurant knowing in Japan that his older brother would be heir to
Jiro’s place. Much is made of watching
the older son now in his mid-fifties still working side by side in obedience to
his father, never knowing when his time will come.
3.
Loyalty
reigns. All the suppliers
interviewed for the movie make the point they feel honored Jiro chooses to
buy from them. The rice supplier is in
return so loyal that he refuses to sell the rice he gives Jiro to anyone else,
even when one of the top hotels in Tokyo comes asking.
4.
One
can always do better. This was actually a motto of my grandmother’s when I
was growing up. Jiro embodies this
ethos. Even at 85 he still comes to work
everyday constantly trying to improve on his life’s work, certain that each day
he can make sushi just a little bit better than he did the day before.
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| Dining Room at Sushi Azabu |
Later that week John and I dipped into Tokyo-style restaurant
Sushi Azabu tucked away in the basement of Greenwich Grill in Tribeca. This is no California roll sushi joint.
Instead this diminutive den focuses on simple pieces of fish on rice, a few
rolls, and a handful of Japanese small plates.
Memories of Jiro fresh in our minds we went for nigiri- fish
on rice plain and simple. From the
mackerel to the tuna, amberjack to salmon, each piece was exquisite. Even before the fish arrived we marveled at
the delicate chopsticks and the mesmerizing colors of the hand-blown glass sake
carafe. Both, we were told, were specially
selected and imported from Kyoto craftsmen, an attention to detail and
authenticity of which I think even Jiro would approve.
After the movie John commented that “Jiro” should be
required viewing for anyone who wants to understand business in Japan. I would add that “Jiro” should be required viewing
for anyone who wants to know what it takes to become a true master at a craft-
some talent is important, yes, but more than that it is the dogged
determination to be better at what you do every day. To know, as Jiro does, that even when you
have already surpassed the competition, the task is never truly complete.
Amy Powell is a food and travel writer based in New York City. She is a graduate of Cornell University's School of Hotel Administration and the French Culinary Institute. Follow her on Twitter @amymariepowell
Amy Powell is a food and travel writer based in New York City. She is a graduate of Cornell University's School of Hotel Administration and the French Culinary Institute. Follow her on Twitter @amymariepowell
