Showing posts with label Congee. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Congee. Show all posts

Sunday, March 31, 2013

Breakfast Rebel: From Grilled Cheese to Dumplings


Vanessa's Chicken Dumplings for breakfast
I sometimes pity my mother.  Trying to feed me as a child couldn’t have been easy.  There was a crazy diet and a long vegetarian phase, but those came later.  Harder must have been the elementary years.  When most kids were happily munching on Cheerios and PB&J’s, I would blanket reject entire categories of foods. Sandwiches: gross. Juice: too sweet.   Yogurt: only acceptable direct from the refrigerator- I wouldn’t touch it once it had turned to liquid sitting in my lunch box for a couple of hours.

Breakfast in particular was a daily battle. I hated cereal, cold and hot.  Toast was out of the question, especially when it was the whole-wheat bread my mother painstakingly made from scratch each week (oh what I wouldn’t give for that bread today!).

Finally, after many a sunrise conflict, my mother brokered a compromise: I could eat anything I wanted for breakfast, as long as I ate something.  So for my entire sixth grade year, each morning I would wake up and grate cheese.  You see bread, even my mother’s thick wheat bread, was okay as long as it sandwiched gooey melted cheddar and was toasted to buttery perfection on a skillet.  Grated cheddar was the staple ingredient in my other breakfast go-to that year, when spread between two tortillas and toasted until the cheese oozed out the sides.  So I spent an entire year eating grilled cheese sandwiches and quesadillas for breakfast, which in my opinion were two perfect foods, perfectly suited for the most important meal of the day.

In some ways much has changed since those years.  I still eschew cold cereals but have grown to love those multi-grain hot cereals and rolled oats that I cringed at as a child.  I’ll eat toast, as long as it is from a good bakery, and eggs, as long as they are fresh from a farm.

But part of this rebellious breakfast spirit still lingers.  On a recent morning, for instance, none of my usual choices looked appetizing.  But staring up from a basket in the pantry were some gnarled Okinawa potatoes I had recently purchased.  I pierced a couple and microwaved them for a few minutes until tender.  A pat of butter dripped and disappeared down the chasms formed in the sweet, soft purple flesh. A sprinkle of sea salt later and breakfast was served.

For anyone who appreciates the ritual of dim sum, the idea of savory dumplings for breakfast is far from foreign.  Asians in general take a much less sweet approach to their morning larder.  Dumplings, pho, congee- these are the nourishment of early morning hours in their countries of origin. 

It is in that vein perhaps that I have added a new, nontraditional, non-Western breakfast to my occasional morning routine.  On a recent visit to Beijing street-food style restaurant Vanessa’s Dumpling House, I was thrilled to discover their delectable handmade dumplings are available to take home frozen, by the bag of thirty.  Not living exactly near either their East Village or Williamsburg locations I thought what better way to satisfy my dumpling cravings than keeping a ready supply in the freezer at all times?

Little did I realize that such a craving would not hit at the usually mid-afternoon snack time hour, or dinnertime, but around nine am one weekday morning as I trolled through the cupboards looking for something other than oatmeal to fill my rumbling belly.

Four dumplings went straight from the freezer and into a small pot of boiling water.  Eight minutes later I fished them out with a slotted spoon, deposited them in a bowl, and doused the dish with black vinegar and a good squeeze of Sriracha.  Eating with a side of miso soup, it was a breakfast my eleven-year old self would have been proud of. 

My poor mother.  All those years I thought I was being a rebel, insisting on breakfast that was anything but normal fare in our small California town. Turns out the sort of savory food I was craving, millions of people were already eating, granted most of them were half way around the world. Thanks to handmade frozen dumplings, interesting sweet potatoes, good bakeries, and well, my own adult kitchen, I can now eat whatever I want for breakfast, as long as I eat something. 


Amy Powell is a food and travel writer based in New York City. She is a graduate of Cornell University's School of Hotel Administration and the French Culinary Institute. Follow her on Twitter @amymariepowell  


Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Of Food Hangovers and Turkey Wings


If you are lucky at Thanksgiving dinner, one carnivorous soul will live out his caveman fantasies by taking ownership of a hulking turkey drumstick.  But what of those pesky wings?  Finding a taker to pick finicky strands of dark meat out of the turkey wing is a bit of a challenge too often leaving the wings behind in the pile of Misfit Thanksgiving Food bound for the garbage bin.

A couple of years ago I woke up with the inevitable Day-After-Thanksgiving food hangover looking for a breakfast that would simultaneously soothe my tummy and potentially use up some leftovers.  It was then, as I stared at a bag of plain white rice contemplating a comforting bowl of porridge, that I finally found a use for those misfit wings: congee.

Ubiquitously served for breakfast in China as well as at dim sum restaurants across America, congee is simply a porridge made of rice and water.  This bland breakfast food turns out to be not only the perfect dish to stage a morning after recovery, but also a great way to use up some leftover turkey bits, like wings, in the process. 

The porridge cannot be simpler- water, rice, and a bit of salt simmer for a very long time until the rice bursts, transforming the water to a milky soup.  Congee doesn’t taste like much, that is, until you add to it.  The Chinese like combinations of pickled vegetables, ham, and omelet usually with a fiery chili sauce to crank up the flavor.  For my purposes after Thanksgiving, the turkey wings do all the hard work.

Turkey wings turn out to be the perfect flavoring for this long cooking porridge.  Throw a couple of uneaten wings into the pot with the rice and water, over the next 90 minutes the porridge is flavored with a rich turkey taste.  As for those pesky bits of meat on the bone?  They naturally fall off during the cooking process mixing in seamlessly with the slowly dissolving rice.  A little garlic chili sauce and maybe a sprinkling of green onions and the bowl is good to go, for breakfast, lunch, or even a late night snack.

In my kitchen, turkey wings, once confounding for being nearly inedible find new life the day after Thanksgiving in a bowl of congee.  It is like grandma’s chicken noodle soup for exhausted stomachs, if my grandmother was Chinese and had some turkey wings lying around.

Turkey Wing Congee
Time: 90 minutes
Yield: 6 serving

¾ cup short grain white rice
8 cups water
1 tsp Kosher salt
2 turkey wings plus other miscellaneous turkey bones if desired
Sliced green onions
Soy sauce
Garlic chili sauce

Bring rice, water, salt, and turkey wings to a boil in a large pot.  Reduce heat to a low simmer.  Partially cover with a lid.  Cook stirring occasionally over the first hour, then frequently during the last 30 minutes.  Rice kernels should burst and the porridge should have a thick, milky consistency.  Remove the bones.  Any pieces of meat that didn’t naturally fall off during cooking can be removed at this point and added back to the pot.  To serve, ladle congee into bowls and let each person add soy sauce, sliced green onions, and chili sauce as desired. 

Amy Powell is a food and travel writer based in New York City. She is a graduate of Cornell University's School of Hotel Administration and the French Culinary Institute. Follow her on Twitter @amymariepowell